Fesenjan (Persian Pomegranate-Walnut Chicken)

Toast and grind the walnuts. Toast the walnut halves (250 g2½ cups) in a dry pot over medium heat, stirring, 4 to 5 minutes, until fragrant. Cool slightly, then grind in a food processor until very fine, almost a paste.

Start the walnut base. Put the ground walnuts and the chicken stock or water (750 ml3 cups) in the pot, bring to a simmer, then cook on low, partly covered, about 1 hour, stirring every 10 minutes so it doesn't catch. It's ready when it has darkened and walnut oil is pooling on the surface.

Brown the chicken. Meanwhile, season the bone-in skinless chicken thighs (1.2 kg2½ lb) with 1 tsp of the kosher salt (1½ tsp) and the black pepper (½ tsp). Brown in the neutral oil or butter (40 g3 tbsp) in a skillet over medium-high heat, about 4 minutes per side, then set aside.

Onion. Lower the heat, add the yellow onion (1) and cook until soft and golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the ground turmeric (½ tsp) and ground cinnamon (½ tsp) for 30 seconds.

Combine. Stir 120 ml½ cup of the pomegranate molasses (120–180 ml½–¾ cup), 1 tbsp of the sugar (13–25 g1–2 tbsp), the remaining salt, the onion and the saffron into the walnut base. Nestle in the chicken and any juices.

Braise. Simmer gently, partly covered, 45 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and the sauce is thick and deep brown. Add a splash of water if it gets too thick.

Balance. Taste and adjust: more pomegranate molasses for tartness, more sugar for sweetness, more salt to sharpen. It should be clearly sweet-sour and rich.

Scatter with the pomegranate seeds and toasted walnuts and serve over the rice.